Using Antique Doorknobs with Modern Doors

Question:

Hello, I was in your store a couple of weeks ago, and I purchased a leaded glass door with red jewels for the bathroom I am adding on. I am sure you get many customers and it is hard to remember them all. A nice lady at the front counter was very helpful and guided me to set up the door with all the hardware I needed. When I got home, my husband, who is weary of my design projects and their difficulty, was delighted to find out that the installation was a breeze and he did not have to go back and forth to the hardware store to get parts and pieces. I brought him everything he needed!! The door looks great and the glass knobs sparkle when the light hits them. Unfortunately, there are hideous-looking newer knobs in their proximity. I have asked him to replace the new knobs with antique glass ones, but he said the newer doors don’t have the large cutouts for those big old locks that take the knobs. Any suggestions? Please help. I can’t stand the shiny brass hardware.

Sincerely, Gail Martin

Answer:

Thanks for the email. I do remember the unusual Art Nouveau door you purchased. It is one of my favorite doors we’ve had. I do understand where your husband’s concerns lie. Even though the interior mortise locks (“big old locks”) are inexpensive to purchase, they are difficult to install. Most contractors install them for about $100 - $125. The cost would add up in no time. There is another way to use antique glass knobs and not have to mortise out your doors. We sell a modern latch set for use with antique knobs. That lockset will accept most antique knobs, and your doors are already drilled for it. The lock set sells for $8, so it is an inexpensive alternative to mortise locks.  There is only one drawback. You will find out, when you remove your existing hardware, that your doors have a large (about 2”) hole drilled in them. Because of the hole, you will be limited to using plates (we have a number to choose from) rather than rosettes. The antique rosettes are too small to cover the large preexisting hole, unless your husband wants to fill the hole in and start from scratch. I hope this will help.

For a step-by-step photographic tutorial on installing a set of antique door hardware, click here.

Chandelier Placement

Question:

Hi, I purchased a silver plated chandelier for my dining room from you last week. My electrician is coming to install it on Friday, and I was wondering at what height should I hang the chandelier over the dining room table?

Thanks, George

Answer:

Hi George, Thanks for the email. The recommended height for a dining room chandelier is 30” – 36” from the dining room table to the bottom of the chandelier. If you have taller than 8’ ceiling, you should hang it a bit higher. My personal preference is 6’ of the ground. I am taller and I prefer to have an uninterrupted view of my guests during our long dinner conversations.

Thanks, Julia

Determining Chandelier Size

Question:

Hello, I just found your website and saw all the marvelous antique chandeliers you have for sale. I am interested in a couple of them. One would be for my dining room and the other for my son’s bedroom. How do I determine what size of a chandelier I would need for those rooms?

Regards, Peggy Durham

Answer:

Thanks for the email. Chandeliers are expected focal points of any décor. Purchasing the correct size is crucial to a balanced room. Chandeliers need to express a subtle refinement and sophistication; they are supposed to draw attention without becoming a thorn in the eye. An over-sized chandelier would cheapen the décor and make it seem garish or artificial. Similarly, you definitely don’t install a tiny chandelier in an impressive dining room.

The size of the dining room chandelier can be calculated in two different ways:

(a) The diameter of the chandelier is based upon the width of the dining room table and calculated by subtracting twelve inches from the total width of the dining room table.

(b) The diameter of the chandelier is based upon the room dimensions. Add the length and the width of the room and convert them in inches. For example: a 12’ by 14’ room should have a 26” diameter chandelier.

Other rooms can be calculated with method (b). This is just a guide and you can go several inches smaller or, if you are hanging the chandelier high of the ground (a two story foyer) you can go slightly larger. A good rule of thumb is that it is best to err on the small side when you have more elaborate and traditional chandeliers (most old homes had undersized chandeliers) and to go a little large on more contemporary chandeliers. Ultimately, use your own discretion and taste when it comes to your final decision about your chandelier size. Your opinion is the most important one.

Sconce Installation

Question:

My 1920’s Gothic Revival sconces arrived safe and sound yesterday, and my husband and I are thrilled!! You were right in that the pictures did not do these sconces justice. As I mentioned over the phone, we are in the process of building our old/new English Tudor in a Chicago suburb. We were delighted to find your website with so many authentic fixtures for sale. We will visit often, since I have noticed that there are new items daily. We need several more pairs of sconces and a number of hanging fixtures. The electrician is starting on the rough-in on Wednesday. I was wondering what is the correct height at which I should have him place the sconce boxes?
Thank you for all your help.

Mary J.

P.S. My husband has a conference in Nashville in August. We are going to make a mini vacation out of it, and make sure we stop and see your store. We are taking his truck so, hopefully, we’ll be able to pick out the pantry and the master bedroom doors. I can’t wait to see your door collection.

Answer:

Thanks for your kind email. I am glad the sconces arrived safely. The placement of the sconces depends on your ceiling height. For ceilings heights of 8 feet to 10 feet, the sconces should be 5 ½’ to 6’ of the ground. For ceiling heights of 12 feet or higher, the sconces should hang 7 feet of the ground.

You should also mention to your electrician to use rectangular switch boxes instead of the 4” round boxes for your sconces. The sconces you purchased will cover the 4” round box, however, a good number of antique sconces have a narrower back plate. The rectangular switch box will be covered by most antique sconces. That way you will not be limited in your choices. I am looking forward to seeing you and your husband in August!

Selecting a Period-Appropriate Door Style

Question:

Hi, I just purchased a Bungalow in East Nashville that does not have any of its original interior doors. I was wondering if you sell salvaged doors and if you would be able to help me with the type of doors that might be original to my house.

Thanks, Ken

Answer:

Thanks for the email. We have hundreds of interior doors and we would gladly help you find the right ones for your home. The type of door that was most likely in your house depends on the year the house was built. The bungalows became popular in the 1890’s through the 1930’s. The 1890’s homes predominantly had five horizontal panel doors (uncommon for East Nashville since most bungalows there are from the teens through the twenties).  In the teens, most commonly had two-panel doors; in the 1920’s, one-panel or two-panel; and in the 1930’s, three-panel doors.

Shipping

Question:

Does Preservation Station offer international shipping?

Answer:

We do ship internationally for orders over $100.  International orders are usually shipped via USPS; please contact us for an international shipping quote.

For more information on shipping, please visit our Shipping Methods page.